Farmers Weekly Review

We sure had a few brief spurts of the wrath of Mother Nature this winter, but now with the above average temps, which I call False Spring, there are several things gardeners could do now. Actually, one of the tasks falls under the category of now, or not till next year.

On these winter days when it is actually pleasant to get some garden work done, this is the time, and the only time for treating stone fruit — peaches, nectarines and apricots. It can affect almonds, but we can’t grow those here.

Peach leaf curl occurs in spring’s particularly wet conditions. The most interesting characteristic of peach leaf curl is that the leaves change texture and color. Every caller starts with, “You’re not going to believe this, but my peach tree …” and then I finish the sentence for them. Let me guess, the leaves feel like bubbled up wrinkly leather, and the color is a blushing pink? The callers instantly seem relieved.

Peach leaf curl has an atypical treatment time, a day in early spring where the temperature is going to be above 32 degrees for 24 hours. The tree has to be in dormant stage. And some of the treatments, particularly the organic-style ones, can burn off every leaf and bud if they are even the tiniest bit open.

So now is the time! Do not delay! Because if Mother Nature continues on this warm trend, we might be breaking, but sooner than we think. As is my constant mantra — read and follow all labelled instructions.

The control products for peach leaf curl include lime-sulfur, Bordeaux mixture (containing copper), chlorothalonil (commonly sold as Daconil). The University of Illinois Extension never recommends one brand over another. But if you go into the smelly aisle in the big box store and have to look for the mouse-sized printing to read chlorothalonil under the active ingredients on the label, it is simpler to give you some brand names to look for.

Treatment should be done either very late fall (I don’t recommend this timing anymore because our falls often turn into late summers anymore, so I prefer these False Spring for application). The Taphrina fungus (which is also responsible for the cosmetic disease Oak Blister) overwinters on the bark, branches, and even under these fruit trees.

All of the stone fruit have a crackly bark, so that fungus has lots of places to hide. Complete coverage is necessary as well as spraying the ground under the trees for good measure.

This is also the very best time to prune trees, especially deciduous trees, whose leaves have fallen off, leaving you a nice clear vision of the framework of the trees.

I will start with the general rules of pruning trees and shrubs, then address the special issues of fruit trees. These reminders are easy: safety, dead/broken, and any branch that is growing into the center of the trees instead of outward.

So safety first. Check your landscape for any errant branches that have grown over the sidewalk or occludes safe passage. Do you have branches hanging so low, you should duck your head while mowing? Time to prune.

Especially at your parent’s or grandparent’s homes, be extra vigilant of any low-hanging branches of trees and shrubs that an unsteady foot could easily get snagged on.

After you have removed those safety issues, next up is dead and dying branches. But wait, it is winter, it ALL looks dead. Branch flexibility is a good test if you can’t tell. I always say, if it snaps like a twig, it is not coming back. Also, look for any hanging elbows, branches that might still be connected, in part, so they look like they are constantly waving at you. They are, they are saying, “Prune me!”

Finally, any branch growing toward the center of the tree is eventually going to cross to the other side and connect with other branches. As these branches grow inward, they will eventually cross and start rubbing and causing injury to both branches.

I should have started with the ultimate pruning rules. I have three: right tool for the right job; the cheapest tool is the most expensive; and the only real pruning rule is prune when the saw is sharp.

How you know when the tool you are pruning with is too small. Your wrist starts doing a Hula Dance. Bending back and forth, no good for the plant; a jagged cut is a bad cut. And it is not great for the carpal tunnel of the gardener pruning.

As I always say, my favorite tool for most backyard pruning (not for cutting down a major tree) is my trusty cordless reciprocating saw.

Now on to those fruit trees (and some related). Fruit trees, in addition to the above guidelines, often develop two non-producing stems. The stems emerging from the root system, are called suckers. The totally vertical stems off of branches, are called water sprouts. And there are two really important rules with these.

Have you ever seen a tree like a crab apple or apple, that looks like it is growing its own skirt? The trunk is surrounded by suckers. The usual response by gardeners is to cut them. Well, well…do you remember your mythology? When Medusa’s snake hair was sliced off, surprise! Two came back … and so on and so on.

This is the same for suckers. You are stimulating new growth by cutting them. The better, yet brutal option is to put on a good pair of gloves and yank them out, tearing the root a little. The callus that will form will prevent additional regrowth. You can also purchase a plant hormone product called Sucker Stopper. Read and follow labelled instructions.

Now look up into those fruit trees, particularly apples. Does it look like a cheerleader has her hands straight up (from the branch). Those are non-bearing water sprouts. Ideally you will get in the habit of rubbing them off when they get two sets of leaves.

But if you have many, a word of caution: Do not prune off more than a quarter to a third of them in a year. Otherwise the tree responds, bringing an entire cheerleader crowd, and your tree will become half water sprouts. You will start to see the fruit production go down.