Bagged, balled and burlapped, bare root or in a pot?

Washing soil off bare root trees reveal a lifetime of problems.
Washing soil off bare root trees reveal a lifetime of problems.

Tis the season for the garden center to be as busy as Black Friday after Thanksgiving. But don’t just be drawn to the dazzling, brightly colored annuals and perennials. Mid-spring is a great time to plant some new trees and shrubs.

Remember, trees and shrubs are like lifelong friends, they are always there — constant, stable and foundational. Trees and shrubs are the bones of your garden providing year-round character. They provide us with long-term commitment, but do we do the same?

Tree planting is one of the most important processes, but it is often treated as flippantly as planting an annual in a container. The results? Bad return on your poor investment. Poor planting, and even before that, poor evaluation of the trees you buy, can result in shortened life for your trees.

And that is a big problem. For each year a tree grows, it is a larger benefit to your landscape. And tree problems that could have been prevented at planting don’t show up often until 10 or more years later. Then, you have to start over, losing all those wonderful years of growth.

It is often said that losing a big tree out of a landscape is worth over $5,000 in property value. Good news, though, just learning some simple issues to check for and understanding the simple planting processes will help you get the maximum life out of your trees.

Before you buy, the first consideration should be getting a tree or shrub for the right place. Right plant, right place should dictate every plant we purchase. Although I know many of us, especially me, impulse buy and then do that roaming dance walking around the yard, pot in hand, trying to figure out where I should plant this new gem.

With trees, it should be less impulse and more research and reflection. Trees are the longest-term commitment gardeners make. First it is all about size. That pretty exfoliating bark of that 4-foot river birch looks like it would be perfectly sited near the house so you can enjoy the shape and form of that tree.

But did you read the tag? It will grow to 70 by 40 feet tall. I see this mistake over and over in new subdivisions. And 10 years down the road, the tree is touching the house or roof, and the homeowner is left to start amputating it branch by branch. Now it is an eyesore.

Also, consider the function you want this new woody to perform? Are you looking for shade? Or something more ornamental? Do you want a tree that attracts and benefits wildlife? Trees come in all shapes — lollipops, ovals, vases, pyramids.

The ideal tree size to buy is 1.5”-2” caliper. This means that 1 foot up from the ground, the tree diameter (not circumference) measures this amount. A smaller tree will grow faster than a larger, more established tree because it adapts quicker.

Trees come potted, balled and burlapped or bare root. Regardless of which way they come, it is essential to check the state of the root ball, ideally before purchase, but definitely before planting. If you are having the tree planted by a company, they may tell you that they will void the warranty if you want them to cut off the burlap or cage. But consider this: The warranty is usually one year and at most, two years. The problems that girdling roots can cause won’t show up until at least 10 years. Why not avoid the chance of that happening?

You don’t ever want to allow tree roots that are circling the root ball. This comes naturally as the roots meet the burlap, pot, container and hit and impasse, so they start circling. If those circling roots are not changed — either by cutting through them or physically manipulating them to grow outward away from the trunk — the root will eventually strangle the tree.

You can see this on many street trees. You look near the trunk and see roots that are winding around the base. Roots get thicker as they get older, and the circling ones will eventually shorten the life of that tree.

The other critical thing, besides checking for encircling roots, is to use the soil, however bad it is, as the planting media. There used to be a saying, “Plant a $5 tree in a $50 hole,” which meant to amend the planting hole with the best-quality amendments.

But science took a long look at the result. The newly planted tree shot out quick growing roots into this wonderful soil you added, then crashed into the heavy thick clay of the dug hole. We virtually created a pot in the ground.

So, just loosen the soil where the tree is to be planted. The tree will adapt to the conditions and the roots may grow slower, but sturdier and won’t experience a dramatic change in material.

Finally, planting depth. We as humans always like to do things just a little more. When we fertilize, isn’t a little more, better?

Uh, no. Similarly, planting a tree too deeply, even a few inches too deeply, will shorten their life. All tree trunks have a flare at the base. It should always remain level or 1 or 2 inches higher than grade. Never dig a hole deeper than the tree’s base. You should dig it wider, but never deeper.

Finish with mulch of no more than 2 to 4 inches, preferably not right up to the trunk.

Trees planted too deeply

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